A
week by the Pacific. JSX Airlines’ 30
seater from its own terminal at Phoenix – no queues, no security hassle, 16
passengers, three check-in stations, temperature checking, business class
seating – the nearest thing to private jet service at public pricing. A joyful return to the skies – to Burbank
(not the dreaded LAX). Luggage
hand-delivered within five minutes of landing, no queues, no lines. Door to door: Desert Dream, Carefree, AZ to
Oceana, Ocean Avenue, Santa Monica in 3½ hours with zero hassle.
An
early dinner at a favourite haunt, just a walk away from our hotel – The Blue
Plate Oysterette. Upscale but
super-casual seafood – open kitchen – fresh Branzino, NZ Salmon, Sea Bass – all
prepared simply. Six/seven different
types of US oysters, great raw bar of cerviches and shrimp, views of the ocean,
low key, vibrant, locally sourced from California fishermen, and daily pick-ups
at LAX for more exotic choices. We stuck
to the basics – a dozen oysters – Minter Sweets from Skagit Bay, Tomahawks from
Menemsha Pond, Sequim Bay Sapphires and Kumamoto from Baja (they also had Kiwi
Cups and Kaipara from New Zealand).
Trudy had Sea Bass tacos and I had a Branzino from Greece – grilled in
its skin with chimichurri. A change from
our desert life to the seaside – and how good does fish/seafood taste when you
can smell the salty sea air and feel the fresh sea breeze?
A
lunch in the Saturday sunshine – in Malibu village – 25 miles from The Oceana. A great drive along the Pacific Coast Highway
– surfers out everywhere hitting the waves – rubbernecking at the beachside
homes of Cher, Lady Gaga, Barbra Streisand, Brad Pitt, Dustin Hoffman, Jack
Nicholson, Miley Cyrus, Bill Murray, Robert Redford, Goldie Hawn and a few
others.
Then
to a beautiful vine-covered patio/garden at Tony’s Taverna. The place for delicious, classic Greek food –
a mezze of taramasalata, pita bread, grilled octopus with olive oil and lemon,
marithes (whitebait), spanakopita and some veal/lamb sausages. No room for a main – just Horiatiki salad and
a classic Greek yoghurt with cherries and honey to share for dessert. A taste of the Aegean – in Malibu.
An
impromptu visit to one of our favourite hotels and stomping grounds – Shutters
on the Beach. A table by the window at
One Pico on the beach with the gentle 7pm evening waves foaming in. The best meal of our stay so far. Trudy had the Sea Bass with fava beans/purée
and green olives. I couldn’t resist the
Halibut (pure white, firm, full of flavour), English peas (irresistible),
gigante beans, marjoram and mint citrus – melted in my mouth.
Oh,
I do like to be by the seaside,
I do
like to be by the sea.
And
tonight – a change of pace. Wally’s –
one of the two places we buy our wines from.
A great wine place, terrific selections, superb, authentic surroundings
– wooden chairs/tables, open kitchen, surrounded by the world’s finest wines. We ordered three bottles of the 2018
Massetino (Masseto’s superb second wine) to be shipped home to Arizona and also
took some truffle salami, bison salami, banana peppers, petits poivrons to
carry home. We shared the chorizo spiced
grilled octopus with mashed heirloom carrots, pea tendrils, lime crème fraiche
with black garlic mole. Then Trudy had a
Truffle Pizzetta – delicious and I had Steak Tartare – prime tenderloin, topped
with caviar and leek alioli – amazing combination. A superb change of pace experience – eating
‘earth’ by the sea.
And
continuing that change of pace – dinner at Uovo – a tiny Italian spot in
downtown Santa Monica – two blocks from the ocean. Billed as “the one place outside of Italy
that serves fresh pasta made in Italy”.
And indeed it is – quite possibly the best pasta I’ve tasted in the
US. All they serve is pasta (from their
kitchen in Bologna) – Tonnarelli, Taglionini and Tagliatelle. I had truffle, Trudy had tagliatelle ai
Carciofi (artichoke, olive oil and Parmigiano-Reggiano). A great hidden secret to try during your next
trip here.
And
our final evening – a classic – The Ivy at the Shore. A North Hollywood / Santa Monica icon. All pinks and turquoise. Classic dishes – beautifully cooked comfort
food. Couldn’t resist the fish ‘n chips
with a cold beer.
Back
to the Desert tomorrow – more Fun in the Sun.
KR